Toyota Celica DIY

The nice thing about this method is that there were no new wires to run and there was no cutting or splicing required. Hence if necessary the system can be put back to the original 2002 stock trim. YES I have in fact done this myself on Ricey GTS’s car and he is very happy with the new Rev Limit. This works and it works well. Now how I did it. It took me about 3 hours and I did not have to put the car up in the air at any time. I have posted all tools and parts I used to do the job.

Parts required for Optimum installation:
2000 or 2001 ECM (89666-20081, 89666-20080, or 89666-20082)
2000 or 2001 Knock Sensor 89615-12090
2000 or 2001 Knock sensor connector (single wire)
Throttle body gasket P/N ?
Intake manifold gasket P/N ?
Black Electrical Tape

Parts required for the install as I did it:
2000 or 2001 ECM (89666-20081, 89666-20080, or 89666-20082)
2000 or 2001 Knock Sensor (89615-12090)
Black Electrical Tape
1 Tube Toyota FIPG or Equivalent Silicone Gasketmaker / sealant (00295-00102)

Tools I used for this installation:
1/4 Drive ratchett
1/4 Drive extensions – 3″ & 6″
1/4 drive Sockets:
10MM – deep, shallow & shallow swivel
12MM – deep, shallow & shallow swivel
E7 female Torx
3/8 Drive ratchett (6″ handle & foot long swivel head)
3/8 Drive torque ratchett
3/8 Drive 3″, 6″ & 8″ Extensions
3/8 drive sockets:
10MM – deep
12MM – deep
14MM – Snapon half depth flank drive
3/8 to 1/2 adapter
1/2 drive sockets:
27MM – deep
Telescoping magnet
Philips Screwdriver
Slotted Screwdriver (standard and very small)
Snap-On Pick Set
Needle Nose Pliers
Wrenches used:
10MM & 14MM Snap-on 5degree offset head combination wrenches (box and open end)
Extra 14MM open end wrench or adustable wrench capable of 14MM
Shop Light
5MM Allen wrench

Procedure:

Step 1 – Disconnect the negative battery cable and set it aside out of the way. It is loosened with a 10MM wrench. (always be sure to wear safety glasses when working on or around batteries) THIS STEP IS ESSENTIAL!!! The battery MUST be unplugged for the entire operation!!!!!

Step 2 – Remove the engine plastics. The front passengers side plastic can be removed by depressing the center of the round black plastic pop rivets with a screw driver. Once the center pops in the rivet can be lifted out. The plastic on the engine itself that covers the intake and valve cover can be removed using a 5MM allen wrench. It is secured at 4 locations, 3 on the front edge and one back behind the oil cap.

Step 3 – remove the 2 large and one small vacuum hoses from the throttle body / intake manifold and bend them back out of the way. The spring clamps are loosened with a pair of needle nose pliers.

Step 4 – Disconnect the wiring harness from all sensors and connectors on the front of the engine. Disconnect the loom mounts from their standoffs by depressing or prying the locking tabs and sliding them off. The main power feed to the alternator will have to be removed with a 10mm wrench or sockett. (the grey plastic cap over the nut can be pried up with a slotted screwdriver. The wire harness also has 2 10mm mounting bolts up by the valve cover on the drivers side that need to be removed as well. Once fully loose lay it up on the back of the valve cover.

Step 5 – disconnect the intake hose or CAI and move it aside. This is done by loosening all hose clamps and pushing it back.

Also disconnect the hose from the intake to the EVAP VSV at the Evap VSV. This is done by loosening the spring clamp withthe needle nose pliers.

Step 6 – remove throttle cable by loosening the passenger side 14mm setbolt and backing it off by about 1/2″ (I took it out of all it’s brackets and set it off to the side on the passenger side of the engine bay)

Step 7 – Remove the throttle cable mounting brackett (2 10mm bolts from teh front – I’d use the 3/8 stuff)

Step 8 – Unplug the TPS and IAC connectors if you have not already done so.

Step 9 – Remove the upper engine foam (do not throw this out – its is important to put it back later if you want to retain the engine sound you currently have.

Step 10 – remove the bracket from the intake to the alternator. This is done by removing the 2 12MM bolts from above with 3/8 drive ratchett and 6″ or 8″ extension.

Step 11 – remove the 12mm bolt securing the dipstick tube

Step 12 – remove the 2 12MM bolts and 1 12mm nut securing the drivers side intake to head support plate. I loosened them with a 12MM wrench and then worked them loose with a shallow 12MM flex head sockett on teh 1/4 drive gear. Be sure to have a magnet ready to catch the bolts as they will want to fall.

Step 13 – remove the 14MM support bolt on the drivers side under the bottom of teh intake manifold. You are going to need the 3/8 drive gear and at least a 12″ ratchett for this one its a bear.

Step 14 – remove the 10mm bolt securing the VVTi OCV

Step 15 – remove the 2 10MM nuts securing the crankcase breather tube to the valve cover

Step 16 – pull the crankcase breather tube as far out as you can. (Its the black pipe that bolts to teh upper passenger front side of the valve cover)

Step 17 – loosen the 3 bolts and 2 nuts securing the intake manifols and remove them. They are 12MM and can all be removed with the 3/8 rathchett and extension

Step 18 – loosen the OCV and rotate it so the black plastic section is facing the manifold (the 2 brass sides to not afford adequate clearance) Pull it out as far as it will go untill it hits teh breather tube.

Step 19 – remove the 10mm bolt securing the coolant resivoir – you will need to move it around some when removing and installing the intake manifold. Oce the bolt is out you can lift the resivoir up and then move it around.

Step 20 – pull the intake manifold off and lay it down to the side. Ther will still be 2 coolant hoses connecting the throttle body to the block so getting it over the long mounting stud will be tricky but it can be done. (if you got a new throttle body gasket take the throttle body loose at this time and the intake removal will be MUCH easier)

Step 21 – remove the lower engine noise foam

Step 22 – unplug knock sensor and remove it by removing the 12MM nut that secures it. (I used a 12mm medium depth snapon flank drive socket just to be safe)

Step 23 – remove the old knock sensor mounting stud with the E7 female torx socket and 1/4 drive ratchett.

Step 24 – remove the white locking tab from teh knock sensor connector with a screw driver.

Step 25 – loosen the wire insulation / sealer with a pick.

Step 26 – pull back the small black connector locking tabs (away from wire terminal) and back the 2 wires out of the connector one at a time

Step 27 – Tape the White wire back up onto the harness with black electrical tape. Be sure NO part of the metal connector is exposed.

Step 28 – Install the new knock sensor in place of the old one and torque to 33 Ft./lbs or torque. I had to use a 1/2 drive 27mm deep socket for the sensor and my only torque wrench that does that low was a 3/8 drive so I used a 3/8 to 1/2 drive step up adapter and set the torque to 34 ft/lbs to compensate for the play and slop in the adapter.

Step 29 – Seat the black wire firmly and fully onto the male pin in the knock sensor. Fill the cavity with the FIPG or silicone sealant completely out to the insulator boot on the black wire. This will both secure teh wire and keep water out of the connection (The PREFERRED method would be to stick the black wire in the correct plastic connector off an 00 or 01 or ANY 1ZZ and use the normal plastic connector to lock the wire in place, unfortunately we did not have this peice and instead used the FIPG) Once done use electrical tape to hold the wire in place while you leave the sealant to set up.

Step 30 – remove the 2 10mm bolts securing the top of the ECM cover. Once they are out pop the top loose by prying out on the 3 locking tabs. Once all sides are loose the cover should lift off easily.

Step 31 – remove the 2 grommets securing the harness to the ECM box and then unplug all the connectors to the ECM. On the passenger side of the ECM there will be a 10MM bolt securing it. Remove that with a 10MM socket and extension (I used 3/8 drive). Then go to the drivers side and using a screw driver pry back the white plastic locking tab. Once it is free the ECM should slide easily up out of the box.

Step 32 – Double check the part number on your ECM thats going in – be sure its a 2000 or 2001 – check all the pins and be sure they are not bent or corroded and that the ECM does not look damaged in any way. make sure it has the proper mounting brackets and that they are in good shape. If not swap on the bracketts from the 2002 ECM.

Step 33 – Slide the 2000/2001 ECM into place and bolt it down with the 10MM bolt you took out. Snap all connectors back into their original positions and return the grommets to their holes. All connectors should slide easily into their original positions and not require and considerable amount of force. Be careful not to bend any pins. Double check all connectors to make sure they are securely snapped in.

At this point the following parts should have been REMOVED from the vehicle:

And the following parts will be installed to replace them

Step 34 – Snap the ECM cover back into place and re tighten the 2 10MM bolts with a 1/4 ratchet and sockett.

Step 35 – check your Sealant. If it is not dry you may choose to go wash your hands and grab a snack and a beer at this point. Otherwise make sure teh wire is taped into place with black electrical tape and will not fall out of the connector hole.

Step 36 – Replace the lower foam block

Step 37 – replace the manifold – be careful not to scratch the mating surface. (ig you are using a new intake manifold gasket now is a good time to put it on

Step 38 – hand tighten all 3 bolts and 2 nuts that secure the upper portion of the intake (12mm) and start threading the 14mm bolt on the bottom but do not tighten. Once this is done using the 3/8 drive ratchett with an extension and 12MM sockett tighten the 12MM bolts and nuts in stages. If you are reusing teh gasket torque the hell out of em – get em REALLY tight. If using a new gasket torque to factory specs.

Step 39 – tighten the 14mm bolt on teh bottom of the intake.

Step 40 – replace the intake to head brace on teh drivers side of the intake.

Step 41 – install the 12mm alternator bracket bolt

Step 42 – Install the alternator to intake brace – the standoff for teh wiring harness goes to the alternator side.

Step 43 – replace the hoses to the throttle body and intake.

Step 44 – put the VVTi OCV back to its original position and replace the 10mm bolt securing it.

Step 45 – replace and re-tighten the 2 10MM nuts securing the crankcase breather tube to teh valve cover

Step 46 – replace teh upper engine foam

Step 47 – replace the wirign harness – be sure to connect all connectors snugly and to their proper element – the natural layout of the harness should prevent mistakes. Also remember to replace the 2 10MM bolts holding the harness and to put all harness brachets back onto their standoffs. Replace the Alternator wire and retighten the 10mm bolt. Snap teh grey plastic cover back into place

Step 48 – install the throttle cable mounting bracket with teh 2 10mm bolts.

Step 49 – route throttle cable back through the holders and adjust both nuts so that the throttle bellcrank is always closed even if you move the cable housing 4″ up and down. No looser, no tighter. double check and make sure you have both 14mm adjustment nuts fully tightened.

Step 50 – replace and re tighten intake hose and all VSV hoses. Make sure the TPS and IAC connectors are on.

Step 51 – replace the coolant resivoir and its 10mm bolt.

Step 52 – replace upper and front engine plastics – look around to be sure nothing is loose or unconnected.

Step 53 when you are 100% sure you are otherwise done re-connect the negative battery cable.

Step 54 – check and listen for leaks or loose parts.

Step 55 Once you car is warmed up go for a drive and enjoy your new 8400 RPM Fuel Cut!!!

If you try to use this as instructions and you have problems – too bad – You get what you pay for and this here in that case would fall under the heading of “Free Advice”. But anyways this worked like a charm for me.

Griffin