Aftermarket Lock Actuator (Driver's Side) Install Guide

Alright this is what everyone has been waiting for! I know many of you have lock actuators that bad, and don’t want to pay the $258(and some change) to get the original part from the Toyota Dealership. I bought an an aftermarket actuator for my 2000 CELICA GT to custom mount and replace with the old one. I will show you how to do everything that is needed to complete the installation! LETS GET STARTED!!

You will need this actuator from this website:

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a…UATOR/-/1.html

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>>It should only cost you like $12 shipped<<

Tools you will probably need include:
-Wire Cutters(and plastic shroud remover)
-Screw Driver
-Utility Knife
-Drill
-Ratchet and Sockets
-Wrenches
-Black Electrical Tape or Shrink Wrap
-Bolts w/Nuts

This replacement is for the DRIVER’S SIDE DOOR. If your looking to do the Passenger’s Side Door just do everything flip flop (common sense)
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{1} Remove the Door panel. There are two screws on the right (by the dash council), two screws on the bottom of the panel, a screw in the middle right above the garbage spot, and there is a screw behind the little plastic piece behind the door handle(you can remove the plastic piece with a Flathead screwdriver, it will just pop out, then remove the screw)
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{2} The door panel will slide up and off, then remove the cables from the door panel by un-hooking them. There will be two, 1 for the door handle(bottom), and 1 for the lock actuator(top). Take the panel and set it aside, when u have that done peel back the plastic. THE DOOR SHOULD LOOK LIKE THIS:

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{3}Finding the lock/unlock wires. Next what you need to do is find the lock/unlock wires. There is a group of wires that runs lengthwise along the door, and are taped every couple inches, cut the tape every couple inches and pull out the wiring so you can see the colors.

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{4} In my car the LOCK wire was BLUE and WHITE, and the UN-LOCK was BLUE and RED. Make sure u don’t mix this up! **ATTENTION** >> make sure to test the wires and see which one has power when being locked and which one has power when being un-locked (if the colors arn’t the same) just like i did in the picture. You will need to do this so you can wire the actuator up. When you find the two wires you need, cut them. (next step)

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{5} Powering the Actuator. Now when you have figured out the wires and which is lock and which is un-lock you have to wire the actuator in. If your actuator comes EXACTLY like mine (colors of wires black and green) wire the BLUE and WHITE (lock) wire to the GREEN actuator wire, and then wire the BLUE and RED (un-lock) wire to the BLUE actuator wire. *** if yours did not come the same you will have to play with it and make sure you have it set up right. THIS IS A VERY IMPORTANT STEP! When the actuator is IN it is going to LOCK the door, and then when the actuator is PUSHED OUT the door is going to be UN-LOCKED!!!!

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{6} Mounting the Actuator. This is what i thought the hardest part would be, finding a place to mount it… if you mount it just like I did in this picture you WILL NOT have a problem, so just mount it there. What I did is drilled the holes out a bit in the actuator so that i could fit bolts through them, then i marked the door and drilled the same size into the door so that i could put the bolts through the door and but nuts on the back side. ** BE CAREFUL NOT TO DRILL THROUGH AND HIT YOUR WINDOW FOR GOD’S SAKE!!!

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{7}The hardest part. Splicing into the cable and hooking up the actuator to the lock/unlock cable. After you mount the actuator to the door and tighten the nuts and bolts. You have to loop the metal rod through the end of the actuator (the metal rod that is provided with the actuator) and let it hang there. (ALSO dont loose the little 3 screw CLAMP you WILL need this part!) Now find the lock cable, it will be the one with the black plastic end, not the clear/white plastic end. and you will want to measure about 10-15 inches from the end of it back and make a mark. You then need to take the utility knife and peel back the black shrouding in a span of about 7 inches. Now you will see the twisted wire cables… You need to cut them individually. BE CAREFUL NOT TO CUT ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE CLEAR PLASTIC SHROUDING UNDERNEITH THE CABLES!!! (thats where the main lock cable is located is inside that clear plastic shrouding. Next step, YEP you’ve guessed it! After you cut the cables around and off, you need to cut back the clear plastic shrouding. *** AGAIN DO NOT CUT THE MAIN CABLE OR YOUR ARE SOOO SCREWED! After you have done all that you should have something that looks like this:

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{8}Clamping the Actuator Rod onto the Main Cable. Now that you have that done you need to slide the little three screw clamp onto the actuator rod and tighten the little screw down for now (you will be sliding it down or up later). Next, where the main lock cable is exposed, you need to lift it up and slide it into the three screw clamp and screw the last 2 screws down. ( you might have to find some sort of little piece of plastic or metal to put on top of the cable so that the clams holds the cable tighter and in place better. ** BE VERY CAREFUL, I NEARLY PUT A SCREWDRIVER RIGHT THROUGH MY HAND DOING THIS PART, THE SCREWS ARE TRICKY... Now, you may have to make some adjustments you may not, just be prepared to. But use your common sense and best judgment to place the clamp in the first place.

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{9}Finding the Sweet Spot. Now since you have everything clamped up and ready to go, you need to zip-tie or tape the remaining plastic shroud (of the lock actuator) to the shroud of the cable for the door handle, this will help the main actuator cable to move freely within the remaining shroud. When you think you have it hooked up good and that it works good you may test it out by pushing the lock/un-lock button on the center counsel. You SHOULD see the actuator move in and out and it also moving the cable with it (since the actuator rod is clamped onto the main cable). You may NOW cut the rest of the rod (that the clamp slides onto) off so that you don’t a big stick sitting there, this will help the actuator move a bit better. ** ATTENTION>> DO NOT CUT THE ROD TOO SHORT OR YOU WILL BE ORDERING/MAKING A DIFFERENT ONE!! BE CAREFUL!

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{10}Finalizing and Fixing the Bugs. Now that you have everything hooked up and working properly (hopefully) you need to patch everything up and clean up. Tape all the wiring and put it back where it came from. Make sure that you didn’t drop anything into the door where it can rattle around. THIS PART IT IMPORTANT!! >> Get the door panel and try it to make sure that the actuator locks/un-locks the door. So, hook the cables back to their spots, and push the plastic pieces back in just like they were. When you have done that you can put the panel back onto the door, slide it back down on by the window just like it came off, but DON’T screw anything back in! Hold the door panel in place and try locking the door, the actuator should lock and un-lock the door, if it is backwards then you need to reverse the wiring. The main thing here is to make sure that the actuator locks/un-locks the door inside (on the plastic panel) AND!!!! outside (where the key hole is), after all that why your doing this MOD in the first place right? HAHA

>>> {10.5} Now, if you have everything wired up right and the actuator works great but, when you lock the door the outside part (by the key hole) does not lock, that means that the actuator is pulling the main cable, BUT! the cable is just moving around and not moving FREELY INSIDE THE SHROUDING GOING TO THE KEY-HOLE LOCK! You now, need to find a way to secure the shrouding so that when the actuator pulls the main cable, it ACTUALLY PULLS the main cable and not just moves the who cable and shrouding around everywhere, it’s pretty much common sense!

{11}Done. Now that you have got it all figured out, cut the plastic back a bit and put the cables back through the plastic and put the plastic back on the door like it was. Put the door panel back on with all the screws and bolts. ENJOY HAVING LOCKED DOORS!!!

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