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| Tools Required/Recommended |
| Hydraulic Jack Jack Stands Torque Wrench 14,17,19,24mm Wrenches Ratchet 14,17,19mm Sockets 3″ Extension 5mm Allen Wrench |
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| Break the torque on the wheel lugs while the car is still on the ground. |
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| Securely block the front wheels of the car using wheel chucks or wood. Use a jack to raise the rear end of the car and support both sides with jack stands. |
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| Remove wheel lugs, take off rear wheels. |
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| Here is a picture of the factory suspension link and the 3 bolts to be removed labeled in order of removal. |
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| Use a 14mm Socket to break loose the nut on the end link where it meets the rear spindle assembly. |
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| Use a 14mm wrench and a 5mm Allen wrench to loosen and remove the nut. |
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| Use a 17mm wrench and 17mm socket to remove the bolt and nut holding the rear upper link to the spindle. |
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| Here is a picture of the the assembly after bolts #1 and #2 have been removed. |
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| Use a 19mm wrench and a 17mm socket with extension to remove the upper link bolt where it mounts to the sub-frame. Remove the stock suspension link by jiggling it left and right until it pulls free. Bolt #3 was a pain in the butt to put it nicely. This one was by far the hardest as you can not see what your doing and its a tight fit for your hands. |
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| Here are a couple pictures of bolt #3 removed from the car. |
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| Here is a picture of the stock suspension link and the new Hotchkis Camber Link. The new Hotchkis Camer Link should come set at the same length as the factory link but its always a good idea to double check. |
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| To adjust the camber link you use a 24mm wrench to loosen the jam nut and rotate the head. Shorten the arm to add negative camber, lengthen the arm to add positive camber. Usually a lowered Celica requires positive camber, I rotated the head a full 6 turns and that still left much room for improvement. |
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| (No Picture) Use the grease pack provided to apply a thick coat of grease to the bushing faces on the Hotchkis Arm. You can also apply a light coat of grease to the bushing contact surfaces on the vehicle. |
| Install the Hotchkis arm in the stock location and use the stock hardware to mount it. I installed the Hotchkis link reverse from the factory link, doing bolt #3, then #2, and finally #1.
Here are a couple notes that should make this process a little easier: 1) When putting Bolt #3 back in place it only goes in one direction being flatside down. This is hard to do as you can’t really see what your doing but keep jiggling the bolt around and you should be able to find the hole. 2) I found that using a jack to raise the hub helped ALOT when trying to put bolt #2 back into place. |
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| Use a 17mm socket with extension on Torque Wrench and 19mm wrench to tighten the link in place. Torque the bolts to 55 ft/lbs each. |
| So your done one side, Now repeat the removal and installation process for the opposite side suspension link. |
Re-check all hardware for tightness. Cover the grease fittings with the plastic zerk caps provided. Replace the rear wheels . Use a jack to remove the jack stands and lower the car. You’re finished installing the camber links! |
| Here’s a few installed pictures. |
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| Camber Before Hotchkis Links |
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| Camber After Hotchkis Links |
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Hotchkis Rear Camber Links Install
Added May 8th, 2010
Posted in Brakes & Suspension 
Tags: Allen, Allen Wrench, bolt, bolt and nut, Camber, car, factory suspension, Hotchkis, Jack, Jack
Jack Stands, jam nut, link, pain in the butt, Picture, rear wheels, spindle assembly, stock suspension, Torque, torque wrench, Use, wheel lugs, wrench