Toyota Celica DIY

This is a guide to installing both the front and rear sway bars from TRD. They are much stiffer than stock and offer better handling.

Always remember to wear safety glasses and jackstands when working under the car.

Difficulty: 5/10
Time: 10-15min Rear, 90min+ Front.

Tools Needed:

-Jack
-Jackstands
-Penetrating Oil (PB Blaster, Nutz Off)
-10mm Socket
-12mm Socket
-14mm Socket
-17mm Socket
-Various other MM sockets ( a basic set should do)
-5mm Hex
-13mm Wrench
-14mm Wrench
-17mm Wrench
-18mm Wrench

Rear Swaybar Installation
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Step 1:

Make sure you have the right parts

Step 2:

You should have the 2 swaybars, 4 bushings and 2 lube bottles.

Step 3:

Start by jacking the car up. I moved the jackstands to the side after I took this picture because the car wasn’t high enough.

Step 4:

Next step is to remove your exhaust system, this will vary depending on what system you have.

Step 5:

Now you are ready to remove the heatshield. All you need is a 10mm Socket.
Theres 4 bolts, very easy. However do not over tighten them on re-installation as they will break easily.

Step 6:

With the heatshield removed you should be able to see the swaybar and the vapor canister above you.

Step 7:

Next you should unbolt the endlinks from the swaybars, this requires a 14mm wrench and a 5mm Hex.

Step 8:

With both endlinks disconnected from the swaybar you can remove the brackets holding the swaybar to the frame. There are 2 12mm bolts holding each side in.

Step 9:

After the bar is loose you need to wiggle it out and down. I found it was easiest to push it up towards where the exhaust was and it should pop down with minimal effort.

Step 10:

Here is a comparison shot between stock and the new TRD one, you can tell the TRD one is much beefier.

Step 11:

Now you need to grease the bushings with the supplied lube, there is a part number listed in the manual if you need more.

Step 12:

Installation is the reverse of removal. The rear has two holes for adjustment, the outer one is softer and the inner is stiffer. Here is a couple installed pics.

All done with the rear! Time for the front.

Step 1:

Start by removing the wheels. After that remove the endlink from the strut the same way as you did in the back. 14mm wrench and 5mm hex. I would recommend trying to remove it from the swaybar end not the strut first if you can, as this will make things easier later.

Step 2:

Remove the 2 nuts and 1 bolt from the bottom of each suspension arm, should be a 17mm socket

Step 3:

Next separate the tie rod ends from the tie rods by using a 18mm wrench to undo the lock nut and then a 13mm wrench to twist the tie rod out. Careful not to move the locknut much as this changes your alignment.

Step 4:

Remove the bolts/nuts from the front and rear of the crossmember, there is 4 in the front and like 5 rear. The picture is of the rear. There are two nuts in the holes for the rear motor mount

Step 5:

With a jack under the subframe you are ready to start lowering it. There are two main bolts on each side. Remove these and then lower the jack slightly like a 1/4-1/2″

Step 6:

Ok the last thing standing between you and the swaybar is the power steering rack. It’s held on by 4 bolts on top the subframe. Two can be reached from the drivers wheel well, one from under it and one from the passenger well. These bolts can be tricky and you probably need to use the two wrench method to break them loose the first time. You can see two of them from this picture of the passenger side.

Step 7:

Ok with those 4 bolts out you are now free to remove the subframe. Now there are two ways to do this, all in one unit or take the swaybar off as you lower the frame. I took the sway off once the subframe dropped about 8″. Once you start lowering your jack make sure everything is unattached. The swaybar runs between two power steering lines on the passenger side you need to watch for. They are pretty beefy but be careful still. Rotate the bar to gain clearance over the lines.

If you lower the frame you can access the bolts for the swaybar pretty easily. There are 2 12mm Bolts on each side. After removing them I found its best to get under the middle of the car looking up with feet out the front. You should be looking at the exhaust header now. From there you can manuver the sway bar over the PS lines and out under the left side.

Step 8:

Ok most the hard work is done! At this point you should be able to compare the old v.s. new.

Grease the bushings up and apply like the rear.

Step 9:

Reverse your steps and reinstall the new sway. Take your time on the front and don’t get too frustrated. Make sure everything is tightened properly and torqued correctly, you removed some key suspension parts that you don’t want coming loose.

Step 10:

Get cleaned up and get a cold drink. Make sure everything is secure then go out for a test drive!