Bleeding your brakes

This is my first DIY so bare with me…

Supplies needed:
- Jack
- Jack Stands (at least 2)
- 2 Wheel Chocks
- Brake Fluid (1 pint is fine)
- 3/16 in. ID Clear Plastic Tubing (about 14 inches)
- Empty Water Bottle
- 1 Can Of Brake Parts Cleaner
- 5/16 in. Box Wrench
- And 1 Helper (to pump the brake pedal)

02bb159da0144080ef577bc2752cffb4  Bleeding your brakes

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The correct order to bleed your brakes is back passenger side, back driver side, front passenger side, and then driver side. Work furthest to closest towards the brake fluid reservoir.

Preparation:

- First loosen your lug nuts then jack your car up and put it on jack stands. You can either jack the whole car up or do just the back and then the front (I did back and then front). After it’s on jack stands take the wheels off.

- Open the brake fluid reservoir and check it to make sure the fluid level is above the seam of the reservoir. DON’T LET THE RESERVOIR BECOME EMPTY AT ANYTIME DURING THE BLEEDING PROCESS.

Bleeding Process:

1. Start at the rear passenger side. Locate the bleeder screw at the rear of the drum brake cylinder. It should look something like this:

008f7504264c065fd27e1b5c7ff35834  Bleeding your brakes

There should be a rubber cap on the end of the bleeder screw that looks like this:

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All of mine were off except one, and this one was very dried out. So I gotta get more of them.

2. Place a box end wrench over the bleeder screw (5/16”). After that is in place put one end of the plastic hose over the nipple of the bleeder screw. Then place the other end of the plastic hose into the empty bottle you have (I put about an inch or 2 of brake fluid in the bottom of the bottle cuz I was always told to do this so air doesn’t get sucked back into the tube, I don’t know if that’s true or not but I just do it) It should now look like this:

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3. Next tell your helper to apply the brake. When they do this they should pump the brake 3 times and then hold down the brake pedal. When they are holding it down they should say something back to you to let you know they are holding it. (make sure they hold the brake pedal down until you tell them to release it)

4. Loosen the bleeder screw about ¼ of a turn until brake fluid starts to come out of it. This only need to be open for about a second or two. The brake pedal will fall to the floor when the screw is loosened, make sure the helper doesn’t stop holding down the brake until you tell them to do so.

5. Close the bleeder screw by tightening it.

6. Tell your helper to release the brakes. Make them say when they release the brakes

Again: DO NOT RELEASE THE BRAKE PEDAL WHILE THE BLEEDER SCREW IS OPENED, IT WILL SUCK AIR BACK INTO THE SYSTEM.

7. Continue with the bleeding process (steps 3-6) until there are no more air bubbles coming from the line. I did this 5 times per wheel.

8. After bleeding one wheel until no more bubbles come out, move onto the next wheel. You should spray the brake parts cleaner on the bleeder screw and all other places that had brake fluid touch it. Make sure to check the fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel. Top off accordingly.

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9. The front caliper is done the same way. The bleeder screw is toward the front of the caliper like this:

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You still put the box wrench and then the tubing on just like the rear:

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10. Repeat steps 3-6 for front calipers also.

11. After all 4 corners are done test your brake pedal; it should be more firm now.

12. Start wrapping everything up. You should have dark brake fluid like this:

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Put your wheels back on and lower your car back down. Properly dispose of the used brake fluid as you would with motor oil. Never put used brake fluid back into the brake fluid reservoir.

When your car is back down on the ground pump your brakes before you start the car. If they are worse then when you started you did something wrong and probably got air into the lines and need to re-bleed them.

Now go ahead and take your car for a test drive and enjoy.

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