Extended Pushrod Installation

Have an aftermarket clutch and believe your shifting still doesn’t feel quite right? Need to shove the clutch pedal all the way to the floor to disengage power to the transmission? Finding it difficult to shift into reverse because the clutch is dragging? Then perhaps this mod is for you.

I installed this modification on my 2zzge XRS with the stock clutch in place. The result was not spectacular, but it has made shifting much more ‘pleasurable’. AKA, the engagement point for the clutch is now near the middle/top of the pedal travel and not at the bottom. Theoretically, the clutch has completely disengaged before it nears the end of pedal travel thus preventing any sort of clutch drag. This should solve some shifting problems.

Also theoretically, you can change the old pushrod out by simply pulling back the end of the clutch fork and pulling out the old pushrod and slipping in the new. Since I (again, theoretically) lack muscles, I instead used the following method to install the pushrod:

What you’ll need:

Paper towels
WD-40 or Liquid Wrench
Container to catch fluid
Bleeder valve rubber cap (recommended)
Brake Fluid
Extended Pushrod (Speed Source)
Ratcheting Socket Wrench
8mm socket
8mm line wrench
10mm socket
10mm line wrench
12mm socket

Your target area, found just behind and below the radiator, should appear like this (Note, this is with the extended pushrod already installed):

43fe87498d2f06df847b06c4e5fad7c7  Extended Pushrod Installation

But what’s important are the highlighted bolts in the next pictures:

6929203c03f881262d46cba00acb5bdd  Extended Pushrod Installation


Torque ratings:
Blue mounting bolts = 9 ft-lbs
Red center bolt = 3.7 ft-lbs (44 in-lbs)
Red male hydraulic fitting = 11 ft-lbs
Green bleeder valve = 6.2 ft-lbs (74 in-lbs)

Step 1

Spray down the bolts with WD-40 or equivalent and let soak in.

Step 2

Remove the center 10mm bolt using the ratchet. Then, using the 10mm line wrench remove the hydraulic fitting leading into the assembly. Catch any fluid in a container. Cap the end of the fitting with an available bleeder valve rubber cap (a neat trick a 9thgen user mentioned).

Step 3

Drain the slave cylinder by opening the bleeder valve using an 8mm socket or line wrench and letting the fluid drain into a catch container.

Step 4

Loosen and remove the slave cylinder mounting bolts (blue) using a 12mm socket wrench. Then carefully remove the slave cylinder from the vehicle. Carefully pull off the rubber dust protector and pull out the pushrod. If you want, take this opportunity to examine the slave cylinder’s piston and seals for any signs of wear/tear or leakage.

Step 5
Take the new extended pushrod and thread the ‘indented’ end through the rubber dust guard until it is pops into place. Insert the long end of the pushrod into the slave cylinder.

Step 6
Insert the end of the new pushrod into the clutch fork and line up the assembly’s mounting bolt holes (this may take some minor muscle). Remount the slave cylinder and tighten until snug (see torque ratings above). Fit the rubber dust guard back onto the slave cylinder.

Step 7
Reinstallation is the reverse of the removal, and make sure the clutch is bled before operating the vehicle. You may also want to adjust the clutch pedal to your liking, as this modification changes the engagement point.



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