Fix the tinny door sound after you remove side molding

As some of you may know, when the exterior door moldings are removed and the doors are shut any harder than a mosquito fart the doors echo and sound horrible. I say some because not everyone has noticed this.
After seeing how incredibly expensive Dynamat is I decided to try something on my own. Not only did it work like a champ, but it was very inexpensive.
Knowing the resonance was because the moldings were creating a support for the flimsy door skin, I needed some inner support to get that solid sound back. I reused the removed door moldings on the inside of the door skin. Since the rear doors didn’t seem to change sound at all, I concentrated on the fronts. I first used the rear molding just below the suedo structure, (we’ll call this the ’ss’ for now it’s a flat flimsy structure that runs the length of the door. You’ll know it when you see it) and closed the door. Perfect, no more tinny door.

Here’s what I did. First remove the door panel

Once the panel is off you need to peel back the latch end of the plastic about half way and remove a black plate held on with three screws.
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Next remove the white box using a 10mm socket. This box is Toyota’s attempt to support the door skin. If it worked, this thread wouldn’t exist. Once the bolts are removed you’ll need to pull pretty hard from side to side. It has sticky tape on the upper backside.
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You can either use the rear molding under the ’ss’ and call it a day or use the front molding to get some more length out of it. If you do use the front you will need to cut about 6 1/2″ off so it will fit inside the panel.
You’ll need more adhesive, I picked up a roll from Walmart for under $4.00 and it’s wide enough to cut into four strips. If you use all four moldings, you’ll need even more tape. Attach tape to moldings as shown.
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Now here is where you decide. Like I said I first used the rear molding only and my problem was solved, however for me, I wanted better than before :twisted: . I used all four. However you decide put the longer moding below the ’ss’ as level as you can while keeping it flat against the door not riding up on the ’ss’.
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Another shot.
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If you’re only using two moldings skip down to reassembly.

I then used the rears up top positioning them above the ’ss’ midway to the to trying to keep the two moldings spaced evenly. Once the moldings are attached run your hand in the panel along the molding pressing firmly to get maximum adheision. Note- you will get some grease on your hands and arms from this.
Here’s the rear pictured up top.
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Re-assembly.

Install the white box and it will hit and rest against the lower molding, this is good as it assures you the molding will never fall off.
Install metal backing plate and replace plastic and re-seal with your fingers.
You’ll probably have to door panel clips that are still stuck in the door, I did, remove those first with needle nose pliers. If done with care you won’t break them. Reinstall the panel and switches then you’re all set.

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