Rear Shim Install

First thing youll need is an alignment printout from a shop, dont have them adjust anything! youll need a front alignment anyways when your done. HOWEVER you do need to know your rear toe (in and out adjustment of wheel when viewed from the top) and rear camber (top of the wheel is leaned in past vertical vs the bottom…when viewed from the rear or front) angles before moving forward.

If your alignment sheet came back with all green numbers for the rear, you dont need this DIY. if you have red numbers, continue

My car has 90k miles and the rear tires were no longer aligned with the front. for example even after aligning only my front tires, i still had to keep the steering wheel at an angle in order to move straight. if this is you please take the time and fix it!

you will need
2 shims
12mm socket
torque wrench
mallet or brass hammer
pry bar
exacto knife
sharpie (optional)
glue (optional)
Jack or lift
drop blocks or a jack stand ***weve got hammering to do, i dont want your car to fall off the jack so set it down on a 3 or 6 ton jack stand

Now if you can request a sheet of paper printed by the alignment machine, that gives you the shim setup you need. it should be two printouts: one for the left and one for the right. it will have angles but we will look at the fractional looking number in the center of the picture. my readout was 7/21 for the left and 5/27 for the right. dont read this in a fraction. it will make sense as i explain. i will use my numbers throughout the diy so if you get different numbers use them not mine!

The part number at nappa is 264-2986. you will need two of the same part number. the total i paid is $25, it took about 24 hours for the store to have them ordered.

Now before we get to business we need to understand whats happening, first the shim itself has two rows of numbers. The inner circle spins. This shim will need to be mounted between the frame and the hub. so we will have to modify the shim. if you open your shim package you will see a number of shim setups with shading on a folded paper, your printout from the alignment shop should have a matching shim setup with shading from the package.

The pictures i have are close what your shim will look like when its done. place the shim over your printout and line up the numbers from the printout onto the shim. for example if yours is 5/27 swivel the shim so that the outer number is 5 and line up 27 in the inner circle to it. keep in mind when you mount the shim, the numbers 5/27 must be at vertical top. ***See A

We will be cutting the shim using your exacto knife in 4 places to make room for the shim to fit around the bolts that keep the hub mounted to the frame. ***See B. you may use a sharpie and scribble in the shaded areas that the printout has on the shim so its easier to remember which tabs to cut.

cut a sliver ***See C in the shim. were doing this because the shim inner diameter is just a little but smaller then the hub diameter. with this small cut it will have a better fitment. the shim has tabs to keep both rings together, if they keep popping out during installation i recommend glue.

Next once youve done your cutting with both shims label them “in” or “out” on the number side with this note in mind:

  • right side (passenger side) numbers face the inside of the car
  • left side (drivers) numbers face the outside of the car.

this is critical!!! messing this step up will render your alignment obsolete and useless.

NOW finally its time to get dirty!
Jack up the car and remove your wheel. place your jack stands or blocks. look behind the hub and youll see 4 bolts circled here in yellow.

use your socket and remove them, its not that easy so have patience, you might also need an extension for the socket too. once removed use the pry-bar and brass hammer or mallet to remove the hub from the frame.

the break line connections are not stiff, they are flexible but i wouldnt recommend you to leave the hub dangling from the break line. hold the shim up to the hub and press it into the hub (remember the correct direction? vertical top! double check which way the numbers are facing!)

Replace both top bolts and hand fasten it in a little. use your mallet or brass hammer to push the hub into the frame. keep track if your shim moves!

then fasten the last two bolts. this part is tricky and can get aggravating if the holes dont line up. and the shim keeps falling off, this is where glue helps!
on my car i had 3 bolts in, and i had to lift the hub around to try and get the 4th in.

youll need to torque the bolts to 48 ft/lbs.

it should look like this from the inside out

sorry for the blurr

complete the opposite side just as carefully.
Id hate to get a pm saying “i finished the diy and i have positive camber on one side but negative camber on the other! whatd i do wrong?” you put the shim in backwards.
when finished you should have a somewhat visual negative camber on BOTH sides. if anyone wants a pic of my rear camber please speak up!!!

***CAUTION*** if your steering wheel is still off-center after installing your shims, you still to get your front tires aligned.

Finally, take your car back to the alignment shop and have them align the front. when you get the printout, THIS TIME your rear angles will look much better if not green.

Theres alot more technical stuff to get into so if you want to understand why its important for your rear wheels to be within alignment or what the terms mean that im talking about, please say so and ill explain.

im not responsible for any mistakes! but please have fun and enjoy your awesome alignment!

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