Replace Driveshaft

I replaced my LH (drivers side) driveshaft with a GSP model via Advance Auto Parts. I have had lots of problems with my boots ripping and found out that the shop that was repairing it under warranty kept replacing it with a crappy model which is far inferior to the GSP which has thicker boots a thicker shaft itself and better quality parts all around as you will be able to see in the pictures.

Tools needed:

10mm socket
14mm socket
32 mm socket (big daddy)
regular sized flat head screwdriver
torque wrench (not necessary but helpful)
breaker bar*** (don’t leave home without it)
crowbar or big flat head screwdriver, or both!
vaseline (optional, used on some threads to ease the tightening of bolts. Does not cause loosening and gets the job done easier)
drainpan (not pictured)

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First, jack up the car properly with jack stands and blocks behind rear wheels, what we are going to do first is to take a look at the hub and drain the transmission fluid for which you will need the 14mm socket. You will be removing the bolt to drain the fluid first. You should have the car warmed up so the fluid will flow freely, draining first will get the most fluid out and you can just let it drip for a while when you are working on the hub. Use a drain pan to catch all of the old fluid.


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Transmission Pan

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Get that plastic liner out of the way, just remove the bolts and then bend it out of the area

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Now to the hub. You need to remove the hub nut which is staked in to hold it in place. Use your flat head and mallet to gently pop out the bent metal which is malleable for this purpose of removing and replacing the hub nut. This holds the driveshaft in place with the transmission and the rest of your suspension.

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So bend that metal out so the nut can be spun off

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You will be using the 32 mm socket for this nut

To hold the hub in place, use the screw driver to lock the hub from moving since I had both wheels off the ground

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You will now be using the breaker bar with the 32 mm socket to remove the hub nut. If both wheels are off the ground you need another person to hold the steering wheel all the way to the left (if you are doing the right side have it turned to the right) so you do not screw up and damage your fender or bumper with the breaker bar. Turning the wheel to the side will give you plenty of clearance. If the nut WILL NOT MOVE with all the massive force you are putting on it, you can use a small blow torch and heat up the area to loosen it up.

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My friend’s hand is in the way but you get the idea, breaker bar and socket in place, ready to rock.

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Now you will need to remove the lower conrol arm bolts with your torque wrench and bend it away with your flat head

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The driveshaft will now slide right out of the knuckle and you can see the metal rings which is your wheel bearing.

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The following is a picture of my driveshaft with the ruptured inner boot. You can see the nasty grease around the boot that splatters when it breaks.

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Comparison of old driveshaft and new GSP driveshaft

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Ok so to remove the old driveshaft from the transmission is not too bad, but you need a big flat head screwdriver or a crow bar to slide between to pop it out. This picture barely shows the flat head coming up from the bottom… the angle we got it out from was from underneath so getting a good pic wasn’t easy.

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Like a sexy lady just begging for it, here is your transmission awaiting the new driveshaft

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Insert the new driveshaft into the transmission (the same way the old one came out. the boots are different and when you remove the old one you will see how the new one goes in). When you slide it in you will need a mallet to gently tap the shaft into the tranny until it is up against the socket wall.

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Then you are simply repeating the process of inserting the outer shaft into the knuckle and hub between the wheel bearing.

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We used a jack underneath the control arm to relieve some of the pressure to get the right angle on the bolts to thread them through.

**proper torque on the control arm bolts is 66 ft-lbs

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Tighten the new hub nut that came with your new driveshaft onto the shaft end that is now protruding through your hub. Again, using the breaker bar you must tighten the HELL out of this nut. Trust me, you want this tight as a nun. Have someone turn the steering wheel and hold it as you use the breaker bar and lots of force and your own body weight to tighten until it makes a loud clicking/popping noise from the tension. Note the screwdriver in place in the rotor so you dont get spinnage.

**Proper torque is 159 ft-lbs on the hub nut

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Restake your hub nut with the mallet and flat head

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Congratulations, you are now sitting pretty with a new driveshaft. Make sure to replace your transmission bolt and remember to refill your transmission fluid with new fluid in the same quantity as was removed. About 4 quarts should have drained from the pan so purchase 4 quarts to be safe. Check your transmission fluid a few times after this job to make sure the level is correct. Make sure to drive the car around for 10-15 minutes, shift through the gears, park the car on level ground, leave it running, put the gear in neutral (N) with the e-brake on and check the fluid level. It should be between the hash marks for “HOT”. Enjoy.


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