Toyota Corolla DIY

PARTS:

1. Eaton Supercharger oil
2. Supercharger Coupler
3. RTV silicone gasket maker/sealant

Eaton Supercharger Oil this is the correct synthetic lube for your supercharger:

Cheapest places to buy is at a GM dealership, it should cost between $5-$8

Here’s the upgraded coupler. It’s a green oil impregnated nylon part sold for $24 shipped from ebay. It’s said to be a tougher material than the stock coupler and therefore have a much longer service life. These are sold as replacements for the M62 and M90 superchargers. Guess what, it fits our M45 too. If you don’t want to buy from ebay these are also available from a company called ZZ Performance.

INSTALLATION

It’s best to remove as much of the supercharger’s oil before opening the housing. A good tool for this is a vacuum tool:

Remove the drain plug with a 3/16 allen wrench

Now insert the hose from the pump and remove as much of the old oil as possible. You can also use a sprayer bottle nozzle if you don’t have a pump. Spraying into an empty water bottle or other container.

**Now, if you were just changing the oil you could top the s/c off with fresh oil and be done.

Here you can see I was able to remove just under 3oz. of dirty smelly oil. You can recycle this with the rest of your used engine oil

These things hold 4oz of oil so lets go find the rest…remove all the bolts…

Then gently press down on the end of the nose to break the seal. Be sure to have a towel under the nose to catch the spilling oil. That looks to be just under an oz.

You’ll find the coupler attached to the nose. Here’s the coupler I’m looking to replace. It’s really not in bad condition but I’m not just replacing I’m upgrading so it’s gotta go.

The residue is pretty thick as you can see below. I wiped it down and removed the old coupler. If the coupler is too tight you can carefully use a flathead screwdriver to pry it lose. I didn’t want to take any chances and scratch the aluminum so I wiped the housing dry and pulled it off by hand.

With worn couplers I’ve read that they slide off pretty easy. Seeing as this one isn’t really worn it took about 5 minutes prying to pull off by hand -It’s a really tight fit!

Now about cleaning the interior of the housing. I’ve read about it done 2 ways. Some people choose to clean it with non-residue solvents and others choose to just wipe out as much build up as possible with a rag. Whatever you decide, make sure you leave nothing in the housing that’s not supposed to be there.

I chose to use air intake (TB) cleaner to remove the build up. I used it very sparingly being extra careful to make sure it was throroughly dry before continuing…

The results, it looks brand new!

The new coupler doesn’t have the “nipples” on it but the overall thickness makes up for it. It is harder than the stock one and much more slick feeling, like a hard bar of soap or something.

Here is a side by side of the 2 couplers:

To install the new coupler just oil the pins and press the coupler into place. If you’re not able to do this you can partially install it and use the tightening of the nose to the s/c housing to do the pressing for you.

Clean the mating surface of the s/c nose and body with a non-residue cleaner. Apply a thin layer of gasket maker. Here it is being bolted back together. Just work your way around tightening evenly to press the coupler into it’s final position. Final torque should be 15ft/lbs.

Now just top off the s/c with the remeaining oil to the thread line (it should use pretty much all of it) and plug the oil hole.

You’re done.

ABOUT THE UPGRADED COUPLER:

While working on the install I took a screw driver and scratched both couplers just to see how hard they really are:

Do you see the scratches? I’m sure you can see the one on the stock coupler but if you’re saying you can’t see one on the upgrade that’s because it didn’t scratch. The same amount of pressure that put the gouge in the stocker did as much damage as my fingernail could to the upgrade.

Warlord