Posts Tagged ‘Screw’

Turn your stock intake into CAI/partial ram air DIY

Install Head Unit and Amp detailed

I will try to be as clear as possible and if I made a mistake let me know so I can correct it.

CLICK ON IMAGE TO ENLARGE

What you need
Screw Driver -philips and flat head
Sockets-10mm and 12mm
Socket extension about 10 inches long
Open ended 10mm wrench

Installing the AMP
First thing you need to do is to run the power wire (red) from the + battery terminal to the amp which is located in the trunk or anyplace that you might mount it. Use the 10mm wrench to unbolt the bolt holding the batter to the terminal. Connect the power wire from the amp kit to the screw and bolt it bolt back on. From about 1 foot out from the battery terminal cut the power wire and install the inline fuse holder.
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Now you need to get the power wire from the engine bay inside the car. Before you do these make sure that you DISCONNECT the amp kit power wire from the car battery. There is a way to get in through the big rubber grommet with all the wires going through it. I slit a whole in the grommet to pass my 8gauge wire through it. If you are a 4gauge or 1/0 gauge wire, you will have to go over the rubber or drill a new hole.

The wire should fall out from the bottom of the driver side.

The next part is hiding the wire because you want it to look clean and don’t want people to know what you have.
In the picture the blue highlighted part are where the panels should be. The green is where the gasket is. Pull out panel #1 and hide your wires behind that. Pull out panel #2 and hide the wires in there. Under panel #2, there should be a white piece of plastic where you can hold your power wire. When pulling out the panel #2, make sure not to pull out the gasket around the doors.
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Here is the backside of the driver side. I left part of the wire showing to see how I did it. After running along the panel, just move it to the seats and hide the wires there.
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I ran all the other wires: 2 pairs of RCA wire, 2 pairs of speaker wires and the REM wire along the passenger side of the car. The passenger side also has the white clips to hold the wires. My RCA and speaker wires are grey.
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Again when taking out the panel, becarful not to pull out the gasket that is holding the panel down. Here is a look on the middle side where the seat belts is at. I ran it behind the seatbelt.
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And here is the rear side of the passenger. Its easy once you get there because there are no other wires and the white bracket is all yours.
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After you get all the wires to the back there is one last thing you need to do. You need to ground the amp. I had a hard time finding a good ground for the amp. I pulled out the seat and used the bolt used to hold the seatbelt as a ground. I wedged it between the top bolt and the bracket, I didn’t need to starch off any paint, but if you have a powerful system you might want to use the bottom part of for the ground.
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Installing the new DECK
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Pull out the panel #1. It should lift up and out. Be careful not the break your 12v for the car charger. After you pull out #1, you will see two small screws. Use the philips screwdriver to take it out. Put the screw in the cup holder so you won’t loose it. Pull out the CENTER knob, and take out the last screw holding panel #2. You should be able to lift out panel #2 after you remove all 3 screws. There are 4-5 wires holding panel #2

To take out panel #3, the radio unit you need to unbolt 4 screws with a 10mm socket. You WILL need an extension to take out bolt #2,#3. They are very far back. You don’t need to take out the center screw in the middle.
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After you take out the 4 screws you need to take out the deck.
This part is kind of tricky. It was on pretty good, I had a hard time trying to figure it out.
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The parts that are highlighted are the areas that you need to concentrate on. Those are the areas that are holding the unit together. After you take it out remove the 3 wires holding the deck.

The next thing you need to do is insert the metal housing brackets from the deck to the plastic bracket for the car. Once you insert the metal housing, you need to push the pins inward so the deck won’t fall out. The red arrows are the one that supports it. The yellow arrow are the one that are the most important because they are the ones that are holding the bracket so they wont push out.
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Here is another view of the picture but from the back.
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WIRING UP THE DECK
Here are the COLOR CODE for the SCOSCHE TA021 harness kit. Other harness kit SHOULD have the same color code because if they follow the Car Stereo Connector standard set by E.I.A.

Orange – Dimmer
Blue – Power Antenna
Black – Ground
Red – 12v Ignition
Yellow – 12v Battery
Blue/white strip – REM

White/black strip – Front Left (-)
Grey/black strip – Front Right (-)
White – Front Left (+)
Grey – Front Right (+)
Green/black strip – Rear Left (-)
Violet/black strip – Rear Right (-)
Green – Rear Left (+)
Violet- Rear Right (+)

Pretty much you just need to color match and connect it together. If you are using an amp for those speakers you don’t need to use any of the speaker part of it. I only used the Front speaker one because I didn’t feel like running the wires from the speaker itself to the back of the car.

Once you are done with that, plug all the wires in and side your new head unit in and you are done.
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