Posts Tagged ‘STRUT’

Install Rear Strut Bar

Install Progress Lowering Springs

Special thanks to member xtm for kindly permitting me to share this information with you.

Difficulty Level: MEDIUM
Time required: 4-5 Hrs, depending on your tools and if you don’t run into problems.
TOOLS NEEDED: Set of Socket Wrenches w/ 14mm, 17mm, etc; extensions, LONG ratchet, TWO jacks, TWO jackstands, Spring Compressor (PAIR), Set of Allen Wrench, Hammer..

I suggest starting from the FRONT, then REAR.FOLLOW THESE DIRECTIONS CAREFULLY AS THEY APPEAR. DO NOT MIX UP DIRECTIONS BECAUSE THEY ARE ARRANGED FOR A REASON.

1. Remove the front wheel… Loosen the bolts but don’t remove them yet.
Jack up the car… THEN remove the bolts and the wheel.
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2. Pop up the hood, unscrew the three nuts holding the Upper Strut Mount.
Now just loosen the nut in the middle of the strut BUT DON’T REMOVE IT COMPLETELY! Some RiCeRz remove them right away without using the spring compressor and guess what they end up with?? Yup, Stripped threads.
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3. (A) Unscrew the brake line (B) Unscrew the NUT holding the Stabilizer Bar
(C) & (D) Loosen and remove these two bolts holding the strut to the rotor assembly.
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Note: The nut for bolt ‘B’ on the front strut may require an allen wrench to hold it still while you remove the nut.

*TIP* – IT’S EASIER TO REMOVE THE STABILIZER ROD WHEN BOTH SIDES OF THE CAR ARE JACKED UP (FRONTLeft and FRONTRight)

4. Pull out the entire Strut Assembly from the car. Now use your Spring Compressor and compress the spring, just enough to hold some pressure so it won’t fly away when you loosen the nut holding it in place. Now loosen the nut on top using a ratchet. You see now why I wanted you to loosen it before taking it out of the car?? Because once out, it’s hard for you to control it with bare hands.
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Note:
THE FRONT STOCK SPRINGS NEED TO BE COMPRESSED.
THE FRONT AFTERMARKET SPRINGS DOESN’T NEED TO BE COMPRESSED.
THE REAR STOCK SPRINGS NEED TO BE COMPRESSED.
THE REAR AFTERMARKET SPRINGS NEED TO BE COMPRESSED ALSO.

5. Now using a blade, cut your bumpstops in half (Progress, TEINs ONLY) I believe you don’t need to cut them if you’re going to use TRD or Eibach.. Note: ONLY THE FRONT BUMPSTOPS NEED TO BE CUT— DON’T MESS WITH THE REAR BUMPSTOPS!! LEAVE THEM AS-IS.

INSTALLATION IS REVERSE OF REMOVAL.

—————- REAR STRUT ASSEMBLY ———————–

The REAR assembly is way easier to deal with. There’s no pesky Stabilizer bar and the removal/Installation is pretty much straightforward. (Which surprises me because Camrys have stabilizers in the REAR and NOT in the FRONT…hmmmmm)

1. Obviously, Remove the wheels

2. LOOSEN the nut that holds the strut.
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3. Remove the back seat by pulling it out, then pull down the “flip down” seats.
Underneath the carpeting is the REAR strut mount. LOOSEN the nuts that say “REMOVE” in the pic. The NUT for the other one is outside the car, so you will do it later.
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4. After removing the REAR Strut Assembly, grab your ever-useful Spring Compressor and compress the STOCK spring. Then using a CRESCENT WRENCH and an ALLEN WRENCH, loosen the upper Strut Mount by turning the Allen Wrench CLOCKWISE while the Crescent Wrench is resting against the floor.
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INSTALLATION IS OPPOSITE OF REMOVAL. Don’t forget to compress the NEW springs before installing them.

WARNING: Do not overtighten anything!!!!!!!!!!! For some reason, these US-made Rollas/Camrys strip threads easily (???) Compared to Japan-Made Camrys/Rollas.
DO NOT CUT THE BUMPSTOPS IN THE REAR.

Now here’s the comparison between the STOCK SPRINGS vs. PROGRESS SPRINGS:
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