FM modulator AUX installation

I have the in-dash 6 CD changer and as such have no other aux-device options without replacing the head unit. Since I’m a cheap SOB, I opted to install this kit.

This is the kit I purchased from circuit city.

Here’s my stereo before the job starts.

Here’s the button array to the left of the steering wheel.

First step is to open up the dash around the stereo. The bottom of the panel can be pulled out to give you access to move the other clips out of the way. It hinges up quite a bit before releasing. After that…

You can see in the bottom right the button module. It can be released by pressing in clips on the top and bottom of it.

Now swing the faceplate up onto the dash, and push the button module out of the way.

Remove the 10mm hex screws that hold in the stereo, and the white clip on the left side.

After taking out the clip, the stereo should slide out easily to expose the back of the unit and the antenna. It will pull out easily.
Pull the stereo out of the way to get access to the space behind it. Go under the dash and slide up the two black antenna jacks. At this point I realized that the existing antenna jack was not compatible. To fix this, I needed…

these adapters.
Here you can see the adapters in place (not plugged into the back of the head unit yet).
Now, to seek out some power. The 12V cigarette lighter in the dash is the best place to hook up the hot line that turns on with the accessories. To get it out, you need to pop off the center dial and remove the screw underneath.

After removing the screw, carefully work your way around the trim with a tape-covered putty knife to release all the clips. If you have an auto tranny like me, you will have to slide the gearshift down to get it out.
When you slide out the panel, the back of the cigarette adapter is easy to access.

Slide the red power line up under the dash to the area and unplug the power clip from the cigarette adapter.
There is a little hex bolt on the back of the cigarette adapter. Loosen it enough to allow the power line (stripped) to be bolted under it. Tighten it back down to clamp it in and clip the power clip back on it.
After testing everything, put everything back in reverse order. One thing I noticed was that the lower panel (above the fan dial) got a little scratched from the stereo when it was hanging out. I think this may be avoided by removing the panel before pulling out the stereo, so that’s what you might call a ‘lesson learned’ (HINT HINT).

I don’t have any pics of what I did under the steering wheel because it was tricky to see what I was doing with the camera. Basically, I just stripped the ground wire and loosened one of the bolts underneath the dash enough to allow me to attach the ground wire to it. Any bolt will work so long as it is bolted into metal that connects it to the main chassis.
Next step was to remove the coin holder drawer to the left of the wheel, which gives you enough room to pop out one of the button placeholders from behind. This is the cleanest place I could find to install the switch.
Run the wires up under the dash and through the opening. Then drill a hole appropriate for the switch in the piece you removed.
Now you can slide through the stock switch and mount it on the clip place. Put it back into place and all that’s left is to pick a spot to leave the input cables.
This is how I left the job for now. I plan to install a 1/8″ jack in the future but I haven’t decided where the best place would be. I can plug my laptop into the port now though to get a good supply tunes.

Both comments and pings are currently closed.

Comments are closed.